Tag: Asia

OK, so April’s big trip was Bangkok, Thailand. Let’s get into it with the giant dumb bulleted list:

• As always, this trip was booked just under a month before I left. No real reason on this one other than the pricing and timing of it, and it was a new country for me. I also liked Vietnam and Cambodia, so this was a logical next step. This would be my 25th country visited.
• Had an overnight red-eye to Taipei, leaving at 12:50am on a Friday. I left for SFO at about 8 at night, after waking up for work at 4am that day. I hoped that would make me black out and get a few hours of sleep. Of course that didn’t really work out.
• I paid too much for an upgrade to premium economy for the 14-hour flight to Taiwan on EVA. Dinner was, as always, completely inedible. With a combination of four different prescription and OTC medications, I got about four hours of sleep. I woke up to my neighbor vomiting profusely from motion sickness, which she continued to do for the last half of the flight. Power outlet was also dead. I inexplicably watched Good Will Hunting. No idea why.
• The Taipei airport is weird because the gates are all themed and sponsored. So like instead of B4, the gate is a Sanrio Hello Kitty lounge. I landed at 5-something in the morning and had about two hours, but the lounges were all insanely full and there were almost no other meal choices, so my Taiwan experience was that I ate a Clif bar and brushed my teeth.
• The four-hour flight to Bangkok was no big deal, except the guy next to me was wearing a Vision Pro and waving his arms around in the air wildly.
• Bangkok immigration took forever. Lots of Russian tourists. Lots of people who waited in line for 20 minutes and then realized they were supposed to get a digital arrival card.
• I had a driver from the hotel who showed up in a new Mercedes and drove like a stunt driver, but it still took an hour in traffic to get from the airport to the hotel.
• I stayed at a Marriott executive apartment in Sukhumvit, which is a sort of trendy district with lots of shopping and nightlife, maybe 45 minutes from “old” Bangkok with the museums and palaces and such. The room was nice, a 27th-floor corner suite with a kitchen, living room, and even a washer/dryer, which was a game-changer. It was comfortable, but was also horribly generic and corporate. Fine by me, though.
• First impression was that Thailand was much more like India than Vietnam or Cambodia. Bangkok is basically Bangalore but crammed into a quarter the footprint. Walking around, the streets were chaotic, full of traffic, and sidewalks required hyper-vigilance because of random edges and trenches and whatnot. Buildings were either ancient or super-modern. In Sukhumvit, over half of buildings were either American chains or things with ironic weird English names that were all chrome and glass.
• Second impression, after giving it some thought and spending more time wandering, was that Bangkok was a total vaporwave city, a cyberpunk backdrop where the street level was gritty and confusing, but the rest of the city was either old temples or climbing towers of glass and concrete.
• I was right down the way from three gigantic malls that all sit next to each other: Emporium, EmSphere, and EmQuartier. It was Saturday night and I hadn’t eaten a proper meal since lunch Thursday, so I searched for food, and immediately got The Fear. Everything in the malls were hawker stalls and food courts with lots of people shoulder-to-shoulder and confusing menus of foods I could not figure out, way outside my wheelhouse. I finally gave up and ended up at a McDonald’s, just to get some food down before I got back to the hotel and blacked out from jetlag.
• Oh, also made one of about three dozen stops at a 7-Eleven next to my hotel to get some of the basics. Thailand’s 7-Elevens are notorious for their crazy assortment of Asian foods and skin care products. There’s very little in the way of western sodas or candies, but I was able to get enough Coke Zero to keep me going for the trip.
• Went to the National Museum and the Grand Palace as a try-out run with public transit. They have two train systems, one underground and the other elevated. They’re both excellent and probably second only to the ones in Singapore.
• The only problem with the trains, which was a consistent problem everywhere else, was the general super-cooling of full-tilt AC. Outside, it was in the mid/high-90s with a humidity of 60-80%. But go in a mall or hotel, and it’s like 64 degrees. Going back and forth between the two was disconcerting. The heat honestly wasn’t bad though, maybe because of the winds. I didn’t wear shorts the entire trip, and it felt like the heat broke quickly every night, instead of the New York or Vegas situation where triple-digit temps linger for hours and hours after the sun sets.
• The malls were absolute madness. Ten stories tall, mazes of towers and walkways and large stores; Asian food courts and American chain food and gourmet grocery stores. The second night I ended up at this mall that had a Maserati dealership on the third floor, next to a Porsche showroom and a Lamborghini gallery. The mall itself had a supercar parking lot. Some of the stores had odd English hipster-ish names, like a clothes store called SOUP. Everything was glass and chrome and spiral walkways and indoor waterfalls and manicured trees. It looked like a 24th-century city inside.
• I took two photo classes. The first was a walk through Chinatown with a Dutch photographer and another guy from Portugal. His work was absolutely amazing, and that was intimidating to me, because I’m way more timid about photography, and I’m mostly taking tourist snapshots. Super great teacher, but sometimes there’s a lot of value in learning what you don’t know, and that’s what happened. It was pretty awesome walking around the dark recesses of Chinatown, poking through tiny temples and cramped machine shops and bakeries and such.
• The second class was a night class, with an instructor and a fixer, and we wandered around Chinatown and Yaowarat, the neon-lit main thoroughfare. We used a tripod and got some great long-exposure shots of the main crowded tourist drag and the tail lights passing by with the giant neon signs overhead. We also ducked into some alleys filled with hanging paper lamps and cut through the 24-hour flower market, which looked amazing.
• Took a day-long van trip up to the Ayutthaya temples and Ayothaya floating market north of town. There were six other people, plus a driver and tour guide, and I think I was the only native English speaker, although the tour was in English. We first went to Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, and saw the reclining Buddha. Then we went to the floating market, and then to Wiharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit. These were all cool to look at, although I didn’t get a lot of historical context, and need to look things up now. At the floating market, I ate at a noodle shop and I think it cost like $1.61.
• Took a day trip up to the “death railway.” This is the railway built by the Japanese to Burma, as immortalized in The Bridge on the River Kwai, which is almost entirely fictitious, but the Burma Railway obviously wasn’t. I drove up to the Jeath war museum, along with three other people from Iowa and Wisconsin. After looking at the museum depicting the atrocities of the POWs being worked to death on the railroad, we got in a small speedboat and hit the Khwae Yai river and headed up to and under the bridge. This was a single-track iron bridge, and we went up and walked over it, which was slightly scary; OSHA is not a thing, and the railing was pretty minimal. After that, we caught a train going back for part of the way. This was a local third-class train half-filled with tourists, but half-filled with workers and students. The train had open windows, no AC, and just a few open-cage fans. The train wound into the mountains, past farms and across trestles, until we stopped in a camp on the river and ate lunch. I also got to walk on a trestle bridge on the side of the mountain and go in the Krasae cave, which has a small shrine in it. After we finished, our van was there waiting for us, and we headed back to Bangkok just in time for rush hour traffic.
• Oh, in general, when I wasn’t using the metro or on a tour, I used the Grab app, Asia’s competitor to Uber. This was key, because traffic in the city is so bad. Grab rides were quick, easy, and ridiculously cheap.
• The inevitable McDonald’s mini-review: I went the first time and just got a burger and fries, which was pretty much the standard. But I went another time and got only Thai items: a chicken bites with rice and the chicken was surprisingly spicy; some fried bread treat thing; a truffle cheese shaker thing with fries which was a neat gimmick, but any time you mess with stock McDonald’s fries, it seems wrong; and they had fried pineapple pies, which were amazing.
• Felt a bit sick after being stuck in cars with other tourists all day, so I found a wellness spa near the hotel and got a B-12 IV treatment. The clinic was a nice little hidden oasis in a commercial area, and they do an amazing amount of treatment there, including stem cell therapy, PRP, and everything else. A Myers’ cocktail cost about a third the price it would in SF, and helped knock out the start of the cold.
• The first big dinner was the Palmier at the Four Seasons. That hotel is beautiful, right on the river and landscaped and designed beautifully. The restaurant was… okay. Food was decent, but this was just a basic French bistro at a hotel, and not a big service-driven experience or anything.
• The other dinner was phenomenal. I went to Sühring, a three-Michelin-star German restaurant that was absolutely insane. The Grab took me to this neighborhood that was mostly small commercial places, like printing shops, but when I went in, it felt like I was hidden away in the hills of Munich. This was a twelve-course thing and the food was excellent, but the service was absolutely over-the-top. Like before they served the Kagoshima Wagyu, they brought out a choice of knives and explained the blade steel and handle wood of each one. Or when they brought out the absolutely perfect assortment of breads, they presented the sourdough starter for inspection. Everything was absolutely excessive and incredible.
• Every day, I would have a giant breakfast in the morning at the hotel, which was standard Western fare. Then I’d walk around in the heat and end up skipping lunch. Then dinner would, other than the above, be something dumb. Like I ate at two Gordon Ramsay chain restaurants; an IKEA; and a kind of crazy Japanese hole-in-the-wall in an alley. I did not go to Taco Bell.
• Took the metro up north to see the Royal Thai Air Force museum. It was almost empty on a Saturday, but pretty well-kept with a nice assortment of planes. I specifically wanted to go because they have two of the O-1 Bird Dog planes my dad worked on when he was in the service (although not his exact plane) but they also had more than a few F-5s there, which they still operate. Same with the F-16. The Thai Air Force went through a crazy progression of hand-me-downs from the US, Sweden, France, Germany, and others, trainers that operated as attack aircraft, or older attack aircraft used well beyond their prime. It’s an amazing motley collection of things I normally would not see. (I.e. the Rhein-Flugzugbau RFB-400 Fantrainer is a weird one that doesn’t come up much.)
• I was in Bangkok right before Songkran, the new year. If you saw White Lotus, you saw how this is celebrated: with squirt guns and crowds in the streets dumping buckets of water on each other. Sounds great when it’s 98 degrees outside; doesn’t sound as great when you’re hauling around camera gear. The first day of the New Year was the last day I was in town, so I did not witness any of this.
• Speaking of, I greatly simplified my camera haul for the trip. I only brought the Canon EOS R10 mirrorless with two lenses, an Osmo Pocket 3, and my phone. I wasn’t super happy with the R10 at times, but it was much easier to haul around.
• Trip back was through Hong Kong. I got there at 9:30 at night and had four hours, which was too short to leave and go wander, plus everything was probably closed. I think this was my sixth layover in HKG in the last 24 months, and the place is becoming far too familiar. I had an exit row but in basic economy with the most narrow seat imaginable. Also I had a bag with some Cokes in it in the overhead and a flight attendant managed to shift around the luggage and break them open, which was somehow my fault. No sleep on the way home, a very quick trip through Global Entry, and a long wait on luggage. My “day” ended about 30 hours after I woke up.

Overall, the trip was a nice break. I didn’t think of work at all, but I also did not write at all. There was no grand thesis of this, and although I saw things and learned things, there was no overwhelming catharsis like I had in Vietnam or Cambodia. I thought the trauma of the Death Railway would have some bigger effect on me, but the way it was framed or curated didn’t cause this. I shouldn’t complain. It was a great trip, but I’m struggling to fit everything together.

Still sorting out pictures, although a few have gone to Instagram. I’ll work on that, although I’m also wondering where I should be putting pictures these days. Flickr? Adobe? Anyway.